Monday, January 28, 2008

La Alhambra. . . oh wow.


Haven't had as much time lately to write so I'm posting pictures instead. The Alhambra was absolutely stunning. Here are some of my favorites. . .


The Grand Hall of the Ambassadors: where the sultan received his foreign visitors. Also where Isabel received Columbus before his voyage.


“only Allah is victorious”

This Arabic symbol, looking like a W with the nose on the left side, can be found over 9,000 times scrawled on the walls of the palace.


Court of the Myrtles. . . it was like a paradise.

“On such heavenly nights I would sit for hours at my window inhaling the sweetness of the garden and musing on the checkered fortunes of those whose history was dimly shadowed out in the elegant memorials around.”

“The Alhambra by Moonlight”

-Washington Irving.


Hall of the Abencerrajes, Where the father of Boabdil legendarily decapitated all of Boabdil’s sons to deny them rights to the throne, stacking their heads in a pile in the center of the room. Touching.


The intricacy of this was breathtaking.


Forget the 30 minute time limit--we decided we'd just stay here forever:)

Sunday, January 27, 2008

My faves. . .

Dolce Vita:
Dance Dance Dance!


The Marchar




Café Futból:

Crepes, chocolate and churros, and gelato!


Amazing churros and chocolate.



Gelato. . .fabulous.




Bodegas Castañeda:

Tinto de verano, Salmon and caviar, Iberico ham, olives.



Even the dead bull's head didn't curb our appetite.


We weren't just squishing together for a picture. Bodegas Castañeda was packed , and it took us about fifteen minutes to get a "spot," where we stood to shovel down some amazing tapas . . .


Jamón ibérico (a richer type of ham, from pigs that live off of a diet of acorns, acorns, and more acorns) on fresh baguette. Other tapas: salmon, caviar, and parmesan on baguette.

Jamón serrano. What Spain is known for. You insult their ham, you insult their country. The garlic too. Which is why, when Victoria Beckham (after living in Spain with her husband) announced that she didn't like Madrid because it smelled like garlic, and that she doesn't like ham. . .well, lets just say Spain doesn't like her either.

Monday, January 21, 2008

The Best 10 Euro I ever spent. . .


This weekend I signed up with the University of Granada for a hike up to the Boca de pez, a daunting mountain 10 miles out in the country of Granada, named after its appearance as the mouth of the fish. Over five hours of hiking lead to some very sore muscles, but an unforgettable time. Here are some highlights. . .


La Boca Del Pez



Fresh water from the Sierra Nevadas


Meet Texas, California, Oregon and Mass!

We hit the mountains hard. . . and the gelato (afterwards) too.




FHUREEEZZZING!!!


Stop. And listen. . . to the sound of nothing.





Dilar, the pueblo we passed through on our way back to civilization.




You can tell how disappointed we were when we missed the bus





Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Cambios 2

Learning the language at school has been surprisingly easy, but that probably makes up for all the language confusion that happens 24/7 outside of school. Its been challenging to get pushed back to the communication level of an eighth-grader. Six years of Spanish has given me a lot of background with the Spanish language, but even so, I can’t even start to have a truly satisfying conversation . The first few days were defeating because you can throw out a string of sentences but then hit a block when you don’t know a simple word like "fit" and have to talk in circles to communicate what you mean. Earlier I was talking about the high I get off of hiking, but stopped midsentence because I couldn’t find another way to say "adrenaline rush" or "endorphins" or "high," and so I just ended up cutting my sentence and saying, "I feel happy when I hike." This is how a lot of conversation goes.

Limitation has been good though. For instance, I didn't realize how easily I tend identify myself by what I know. And its weird to bond with two people who frankly don’t care whether I know the six types of fermentative bacteria or extension of interpretation of Jesus’ teachings. Actually come to think of it, most people probably don’t’ care.

It’s a surreal experience that a family not only accepts, but enjoys and loves you amidst all communication barriers. I think our limitation of communication almost brings out our personalities more. We’re limited to simple human interaction.

My host sister, thirty years old, is one of the best things that has happened to me here. A native of Granada, when she is not tutoring students in English, she studies for a teaching exam this May, and when she’s not studying for her teaching exam, she's living it up, a big fan of Granada nightlife. My best experiences in Granada have been at her recommendation, as she knows the native hotspots like the back of her hand. She is really fun or "superguay" as the Granadinas say, but when it comes to banter, I am useless at responding with more than a enthusiastic "SI!". My goal by the end of the semester is to be able to be competent enough to pull comebacks, which will prove to be a valiant endeavor, as it is difficult enough to think of comebacks in English, let alone Spanish. I’ll have to live up to it, as I was telling her I’m going to put her to shame when I get my Spanish down and learn banter. She looked at me and said with a grin, "Only because you’ll be learning from me." I thought for a minute, looked up and said "You don’t need a grandmother, do you?" She threw back her head and everyone at the table laughed. (Time out. This seems a complete non sequitir, but to a Spaniard that phrase is used to answer to someone who boasts excessively. The logic behind it is that Grandmothers boast over their grandkids, etc.). I think I was a little too excited to have thought that up on the spot. In fact, I’m so dedicated to learning the dichos (street talk, slang, and phrases), that I have a feeling that I’ll be reluctant to drop them when I get to the states. So when you hear me talking about how George Clooney is "the train," ( the hottest up-and-coming star) or how Hilary Clinton thinks she’s the "umbilical cord of the world," (figure that one out) . . . take notes and be impressed.

Of course I have my moments too. We were talking about greasy food, and I was trying to explain the word "greasy," to my roommate Stephanie, and used the example that when someone doesn’t wash their hair. I say, "Mi peo es grasiento." Ana starts laughing that kind of silent stifled laugh that makes the chair start shaking. My host mom starts laughing too. I don’t know if you have ever been in a situation where you are being laughed at and have no idea why, but it’s very disconcerting. I was indignant, so I politely inquire what is so funny. She catches her breath and Ana kindly explains. Apparently, pelo is very different than peo. Pelo means hair. Peo. . . fart. . . yeah that’s embarrassing. Or the time that I said I "pelear" (fight) my oranges instead of "Pelar" "peeling" them. And that is why I’ll never find my Spanish tall-dark-handsome. I can just see the dinner conversation going downhill from "Hola, soy Joy. Que Guapo eres, me gusta tu peo."



Tuesday, January 8, 2008

El Dia De Los Reyes







BAM!
A square shot to the middle of the forehead, I stagger back as a hard candy bounces off the face onto the ground, which some parent swoops up to stuff into her already bulging purse. My eyes start to water again, and I wonder if experiencing the Spanish Christmas is really worth the battle wounds that it demands. Christmas can bring out the best or the worst in people—and in this case, the Spanish Granadinos need to learn anger management. Each parade float passes, on which dozens of overzealous niños break open bags of carmellos (little, or in this case, frighteningly big hard candies) and hurl them mercilessly at the parade crowd, which probably passes the 10,000 mark . ( I dodge another missile flying out of chubby hands and shoot a triumphant smile at Erardo, the “Angel” on the heaven float.)





Missiles continue to fly, and so begins the first hour of two days of celebration of “El Dia de los Reyes,” when Spaniards celebrate the epiphany by honoring the, Belthasar, Melchior, Gaspar, and all of the candy factories that work overtime to send millions of kids into a sugar-induced comas.
This trio, the Spanish equivalent of Santa, represents gift giving (or gift-throwing), and is the center of the closest thing that Spain has to Christmas, landing on the 6th of January. Melchior passes by and kids scream, holding open bags for the pounds of candy that rain down. Gaspar passes. Scattered between the king’s floats are commercial ones from local businesses. Virgin Mary passes by but is stingy on the candy until the parents, practiced veterans, chime in and start yelling guapa, guapa, (beautiful) to which the flattered high-school-hired-actress hesitates, grins then dumps whole a bag, candy raining down on ecstatic faces. Other traditions of “El Dia De Los Reyes” is the “Roscón,” a cake resembling a doughnut on steroids, filled with crème and topped with fruit. Hidden in the cream is a bean and a tiny wiseman figurine. The person that eats the piece with the bean has to pay for next years’ 25.00 euro dessert and the person that gets the wiseman in his piece gets luck and is “king of the day,” getting to wear the burger-king-like crown that comes in the box with the cake. Ana, my host mom, bought a cake for us to try, which tasted pretty good, considering it was a mix of white bread, pineapple, candied pumpkin and whipped cream.
A very obviously white-but-painted-black Balthasar passes by on a float, smiling, to which the Spaniards start yell “NEGRO,NEGRO!”. Didn’t quite get that one. A float of friendly looking chickens passes by, somehow a universal signal for the Granadinos to cease the fight over millions of pieces of candy.




All of the sudden the scattered crowd unifies, now a 10,000 person choir, Parents and their children sway together, couples hold hands and smile, and they for the first time I feel the effects of being extranjero, the stranger, as I respectfully step back and listen.

“La gallina turuleta ha puesto un huevo, ha puesto dos, ha puesto tres.
La gallina turuleta ha puesto cuatro, ha puesto cinco ha puesto seis.
La gallina turuleta ha puesto siete ha puesto ocho, ha puesto nueve
¿donde esta la gallinita , donde esta la pobrecita?, dejala que pomga diez!!!!!!!”


A profound silence follows, after which the song repeats, and, as I learn later, is actually about chicken, but hey, to each his own. . .The parade winds down and people swarm into the main street, congregating to begin the celebration that marks the year to come.

Feliz año!